Light eveness adjustments on oxberry

Happy with adjustments on getting even spread of light for 35mm, which maybe because of its size really shows hotspots and darker spots in 1:1 printing. With 16mm you dont need the diffuser. btw you get high quality diffuser sheets with minimal ND value inside flat screens, pc monitors. Take them apart and get the diffuser out, good stuff!

The diagram shows where the diffuser filter is best placed, nearest to the condensor element which itself must be adjusted fwds-bwkds to produce a light spread that covers the diffuser best. The lamp also can be adjusted left and right to centre which can be done by eye.

The comparison of before and after is staggering. The after is obviously the one on the bottom where eveness of light exposure is really apparent.

Massive result in setting light eveness for 35mm

 

 

full optical printer head view

Activity September October

 

 

16mm Projector / Looper safety monitor


Heres the projector/looper monitor project Ive been working on for a while now.

The mount holding the sensor has been taped onto the side of the projector to test the system. In a real world scenario you would mount this more robustly by your chosen method.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The system works like this. The safety box wires into the mains supply. Then the projector plugs into the box via the faceplate you can see below.

Via a RJ45 plug and CAT6 cable with sensor mounted on the end (which I solder/test and make) you connect the sensor to the projector so it is near (within 4mm) of a piece of card or other material that is light coloured. A piece of folded black card with a white bottom side will do. This can be seen in the video spinning underneath. This card itself needs to protrude down 25mm from the platter so a signal difference can be measured from the platter and the card surface.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The system also works if measuring the flywheel as in this picture, perhaps for a display where there is no conventional looper or a hung or otherwise managed length of film. Here a length of white LX tape has been put on the outside rim of the flywheel, about half the circumference should do.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The CODE on the arduino, which is what the whole thing is built on, measures a difference between the light and dark (darker) surface and is instructed to do nothing if there are regular changes. BUT if there are no longer any regular changes it fires a relay which is in the box which disconnects the mains. The arduino draws its power from the faceplate USB socket so it also goes off. The green button connects a PP3 battery to  boot the arduino  which fires the relay ON at start so the system restarts.

 

 

 

 

 

There are several parameters in the code which you can change or tweak to balance the system. One is the WINDOW of measuring, in this case this small looper has a rotation of about 3 seconds so you want at least a 5 or 6 second window. You could add more cardboard sensor triggers for instance, on a larger 40 minute looper, it doesnt matter. The others are things like a delay at the start after the relay switches ON, and before measuring/comparing, so that you can get a looper or projecor running. You could even add a global delay or timer that is set for 8 hours after first power up so in a gallery with set hours it would switch off by itself at closing time. Arduino (and other such things) are bloody great devices and easy to learn. BIG shout out to Matt McWilliams for some early coding and Mathew B at Tate Time Based Media conservation department for field testing.

 

Planning logic for Optical printer digital control

 

Soon as I have finished some other things here in Rendlesham towers I’m going to get straight onto digitising the controls of the optical printer.

To do this I’ve broken down the functions, basic electrical control functions to 4 PAIRS.

This means there are 2 pairs of wires for the projector and 2 pairs for the camera.

Heres the first version of the logic.

 

 

 

You can read the pairs on the left. The 1st pair is the switch used to trigger tje projector to load a new frame. This can be a momentary push button or a latching RUN button.

When it gets pressed it sets off a chain reaction, it effectively injects 120v into a relay, this engages a mechanical clutch, this rotates a shaft, this drives the printer mechanism to move 1 new frame in plus toother wheels, etc somewhere in there a micro-switch gets triggered which can be used to make a counter add a number and if its connected to the camera it acts as the PRIMARY device and a new frame will be fired on the camera. If this button is latched to RUN the whole thing will keep moving and you will get a 1 : 1 copy sequence going.

The 2nd pair is the projector count micro-switch.

The 3rd switch pair is the camera trigger. This can also be single frame or RUN. It produces the contact in the last pair for the camera count.

Now, if 2 is connected to 3 we get the sync as described above.

Now heres version 2.

The same thing but with a bit of colour coding. Green for button controls and magenta for SECONDARY, controlled actions.

What is needed, to enhance counting and frame sequence creativity is something like an Arduino or Rpi to do all the counting and maths or rhythms or programming.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, to help visualise this I’ve divided the switch pairs into PROJECTOR and CAMERA which stand lef tto right like they do on the actual machine. Its really clear from this now that what we need first is another sync mode where the CAMERA is PRIMARY and the PROJECTOR is SECONDARY.

Because the projector trigger button has 120v across it, I need to add a relay so that this pair can be fired from a digital device like Arduino. Once that is done there can be 2 sync modes.

 

Stepper Motor camera drive #02

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’ve been doing a lot of coding for the arduino control of the camera Im calling OX2.

I was considering porting the whole thing over to a RPi so that I could have a keyboard and screen etc to allow more functions based on prompts etc. But seeing as all I need is a X230/IBM or something smaller even, its possible to imagine using this system with the serial monitor?

Instead of writing code and building all the hardware to offer all the functions I’m just using the arduino in PC-usb connected mode and using the serial monitor to do the operation.

After quite a few rewritings Ive landed on a nice set up that offers the following:

1. Single frame always on button.

2. F for forwards and R for reverse camera direction.

3. Select 16 or 35mm, used to instruct footage counter which differs between the guages, ie 40 and 16 frames respectively.

4. Input nunber of frames. Ie, 1 = 1 frame, 24 = 24 frames.

5. B setting, asks for time open in seconds, ie 20 = 20 seconds.

6. H function opens shutter 180 degrees, effectively going into ROTOSCOPE mode. This is very useful for setting up camera-projection.

7. Counters for ‘session’, or lifetime (magazine footage). With resets on both.

TO DO:

8. Speed of steps monitor. The effective shutter speed is best measured ITRW. This is because the maths doesnt really add up. You need to high speed video the mech running in rotoscope mode, and measure the frames in an edit programme. I use Vegas. If the POT input (which controls speed) is mapped to ACTUAL shutter speeds we can use this for displaying shutter speeds in the future.

9. Micro step mode. This is useful if there develop problems with shutter sync. This can and has happened. Despite the motor being closed loop, it doesnt actually have an exact position sensor. You could add one, but the drive is built tightly into mounting hardware and the shaft is not accessible.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10. Getting Arduino to pulse out frame counters for big red LED displays. Note to self, the memory counter can only be volt free, ie fired from a relay.

11. Emergency STOP function if you type in too many frames. This could also go on the big red stop button on the controller.

12. Trigger motion-control job/event. I know I will get around to this, but if we employ simple (and inexpensive) CNC X & Y moving stages for movement of objects we have basically a Go-Motion rig.

13. Time Lapse. This will be easy enough, but be better employed if the whole rig is portable, ie to take outside, and need to build the 36v psu for this and work out way to power TUPS.

14. More a question. Has stepper micro setting been fully explored? Is 1600 per rotation absolutely the best setting?

Activity June

optical sound

I’ve been playing with Matts (https://sixteenmillimeter.com) brilliant Processing sketch for optical sound wave forms using chatGPT to do all the code rewriting I cant do. An amazingly pleasurable experience which as well as leaving me elated also made me consider the ethical dimension to this?

 

Heres the sketch. You must move the wav file to the data folder in the sketch folder for this to work.

PROC01

This work is part of ongoing research into the optical sound track, its graphical properties, methods, techniques, technologies and history.

The video above shows each 1/24th of  a second as a frame of film in a 24p video. But we know that the solar cell/reader doesnt see it this way. These exported frames are a means of studying the kinds of shapes different sounds make ‘within’ the optical sound variable area technique (Matt has done V density, multihump, dual, uni-lateral, the lot).

So the sound comes first, I am working in sound, audio, recordings first and want to see how different sounds form different waves. The discrete output of frames to rephotograph onto filmstrips to make reproducible sound from film projectors is a by product of this process. If you did make Sts this way you end up with frame lines which produce a horrible 24hz buzz. You could machine down the corner of the super 16mm gate to connect the frames but we are in microns here, in an awkward area. Besides, there are thousands and thousands of frames. An exposed ST done on a proper sound camera like the one at WORM is effectively ONE picture. Yes. The optical sound strip down the side of a movie is ONE picture. Its one long exposure, like a ‘Bulb’ shot.

The purpose of the breakdown is to study the graphical properties of sound within the method of variable area optical recording.

Once a thourough study has been made, the next step is to devise experimental graphical forms, where THE GRAPHIC FORM comes first, ie its unknown (to a degree) what the sound will be like.

35mm film can have two different waveforms next to each other producing stereo, then later via matrix encoding, surround sound. This hasnt been implemented in Matts code, perhaps we can set chatGPT this task. Via the matrix decoding process

(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matrix_decoder

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matrix_decoder#Dolby_Stereo_and_Dolby_Surround_(matrix)_4:2: )

you can get L, C, R and mono Surround from 2 channels. With the bass crossed-over (filltered, not out but off) at 150hz into an FX channel you get your 4:1 dolby surround, the .1 being the bass, 1/10th part of the full audio spectrum. 5:1 just adds another surround channel, effectively making it SL and SR.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Above is a frame from a variable area sound output of pink noise. Even in a long video clip of this we get a random effect, where the image never seems to be the same. We could programme Processing to generate lines with different weights, thicknesses, spacings, densities from input like atmospheric or environmental and then photograph them on the ST area to see what they sound like. I recommend reading about pink noise on wiki, cos its totally amazing, weird and mysterious. It seems that everything is pink noise, music, brains, the universe, god!

 

 

 

 

            

 

Activity May

Loads of undocumented activity gallery type thing to make me feel better about what I am doing.

Correcting Walter Murch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dear Walter Murch……

I have been thinking recently about the, perhaps deeper and more long term meaning of Nachleben, prompted by reading your new book and seeing the error in your calculation about how much time during an analogue film presentation you spend in darkness.

You say, with justified confidence (page 29 – 30) that “For a 2 hour film, you spend 1 hour in darkness“. (Suddenly Something Clicked , Faber 2025).

Now its easy to see the mis-calculation. You have looked at a film projector blade and seen 3 openings and closings. You  then thought, well each frame is projected 3 times, so 3 x 24 = 72. This is partially right. There is a basic image frequency flicker of 72hz on a 3 bladed shutter BUT, and for me this BUT is a BIG BUT, you have made the incorrect assumption that those shutter blade sections are equal when infact they are not. They will almost certainly have a proportion in terms of light and dark of 3:2.

No I am entirely happy to be wrong. Perhaps all cinema blades are made unequal. Perhaps you could show me the projector type and make, photograph the shutter for me and we can measure it. Better still, lace up some 35mm and film the screen with  a decent hi-speed video camera. Then in an edit programme, count the blacks and the images. I bet $100 the ratio will be 3:2? (BTW, have you tried this with a DCP projected, uuugggh! Its ugly, not what you think it will be).

This is a minor detail. I mean, in a 2 hour film you spend either 1 hour in darkness or 48 minutes! Who cares? In a totally honest way, it only matter to me because of one very critical issue. That is what Nachleben is, after all, an attempt at investigating, the AFTERLIFE of film and how and in what ways in SURVIVES, and in this case “what even was it in the first place?”

Its a shame because your book, if full of insightful glimpses into science and related technical fields to cinema such as the ross Cache, should be held to as high a standard of empircal accuracy than any other form of scientific research? It feels a shame you couldnt find my research as all the calculations as we read them on page 103, where the error of equal light/dark shutter openings is repeated might be wrong, or better, slightly inaccurate.

You even mention in a foot note somewhere that theres no reason why the dark phase of a cinema projector shutter couldn’t be incorporated into a digital or digitised film. Well, you might find if you tried this operation that equal light and dark openings modulating at a fixed rate like 48 or 72 hz would produce image sequences that would not match mechanical ones. This is what lead me to the realisation that the base count is 5. As you could read in other posts, this count is based on solid empirical study of cinema projector blades/shutters. There needs to be 5 frames for every 24th of a second which means the frame rate, to achive a standard 24fps needs to be 120fps!! Only recent SMPTE DCP standards do support 120fps, so maybe I should make a flickering DCP and see if anyone can screen it.

This is calculated like this. Each 24th of a second digital file needs 3 pictures and 2 blacks. The pictures are up on screen 60% of the time, the dark is up 40% of the time. The whole thing, all 5 frames needs to change 24 times a second. 24 x 5 = 120.

Cinema and ratios have a rich history. We would stand to be corrected if we said we shot a film in 1.84:1. We would be wrong is we said academy was 1.35:1. Ratios define the cinema frame, composition, historic development and technical standardisation. I’m just saying ratios define what is pleasing, what works, what provides the best light/dark balance.

My argument, that analogue cinema follows a human centric paradigm is nicely supported by a 3:2 ratio. Read this AI response for instance to the question; Cultural significance of 3:2 ratio?

 

The ratio 3:2, while seemingly simple, holds cultural significance in various fields, including music, visual arts, and architecture. It’s closely associated with the concept of a perfect fifth in music, as well as the Golden Ratio, which is considered to have aesthetic value in art and design. The 3:2 ratio also finds application in photography and printing, particularly in aspect ratios.

Music. Perfect Fifth: The 3:2 ratio represents the interval of a perfect fifth in music. This is a fundamental musical interval that is considered consonant and harmonious.
Hemiola: In early music theory, the perfect fifth was also known as a hemiola, indicating the relationship between the frequencies of two notes.
Just Intonation: When strings are tuned to the exact 3:2 ratio, the resulting sound is smooth and consonant.

Visual Arts and Architecture: Golden Ratio Approximation.

While the Golden Ratio (approximately 1.618) is different from 3:2, it is often seen as a harmonious proportion and is sometimes approximated by the 3:2 ratio in art and architecture.
Aesthetic Value: The Golden Ratio and its approximations have been used by artists and architects throughout history to create visually pleasing and harmonious compositions.

Classical Architecture: Examples of architecture utilizing proportions related to the Golden Ratio include the Parthenon and the Great Pyramid of Giza.

Photography and Printing: 3:2 Aspect Ratio: The 3:2 ratio is a common aspect ratio in photography, particularly for 35mm film and digital images, as well as for print sizes like 6″ x 4″. This ratio is widely used for printing photographs, ensuring a natural-looking aspect ratio.

In essence, the 3:2 ratio, while not as prominent as the Golden Ratio, still carries cultural weight in various domains, particularly in music and aesthetics. It’s a simple ratio with complex cultural implications, reflecting human understanding and appreciation of harmony and balance.

So, this ratio has been with us for a long time. Im not saying someone said lets put a 3:2 ratio of light and dark into film projection shutters because it gives film or cinema a cultural weight. Rather Im saying we arrive at these proportions when we are in tune or in balance with ourselves, with nature. Nature here being our perception, our comfort, what feels right.

And we can see, in early cinema shutters and how they developed over time, that there was destined to be a final point where the amount of light hitting the screen HAD to be tempered by A) the mechanical necessity to pull down the frame, which itself had to be masked, and B) any flickering produced by this interaction. At some point, someone, somewhere arrived at a good balance point. Around 48hz picture flicker rate, with light dark in a 3:2 ratio.

(NB, its funny you mention 3 bladed shutter as in my experince these are quite uncommon).

The digital erasure of the mechanical properties of analogue projection is what started me on the path that lead to the truth of light/dark ratios in cinema shutters. To recap, any digital moving image of born film material will erase, or write out, or ignore, or prosaically destroy, the effect that mechanical delivery will create. So, if we want digital to recreate, or preserve or conserve, or mimic this effect how many frames of black are there compared to how many frames of image?

Read all about it here, if you got any spare time. I think you might be impressed by the 1/1200ths of second fade in/out that the slicing action of the shutter produces.

The Ghosts of Analogue in Digital

Further research

“Effect of Gate and Shutter Characteristics on Screen Image Quality”, Willy Borberg, SMPTE Journal, October 1957, Volume 66, pages 623-627 (from FILM-TECH list, yet to find this online)

https://academic.oup.com/edinburgh-scholarship-online/book/22094  could be interesting but currently lingering behind academic fortress.

 

 

 

Lewis Heriz in Nachleben pt1

Lewis Heriz in an Artist / Film Maker / Animator whose work can be seen here https://lewisheriz.com/